Scuba Diving Destination - Diani Beach, Kenya
Little-known diving hots-spots
By Beatrice Larco - Associated Press
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With clouds above and choppy waves battering the boat, my diving trip in Kenya didn't seem to be starting on a good note.
The boat jumped over the waves and thumped against the water; rain spattered the 25 wetsuit-wearing divers on board. I felt slightly seasick as I recalled that a fishing boat capsized here in 2001, killing four people.
The captain navigated wildly -- if effectively -- through a "mlango," Kiswahili for "gate," a gap in the reef where boats exit the lagoon through deep water. Finally we made it to calmer seas and the divers broke into applause.
My queasiness subsided as I remembered what brought me here: a barrier reef and tropical waters teeming with marine life -- manta rays, turtles, dolphins and even the elusive whale shark -- in one of the least-known but most spectacular dive sites in the world.
We were heading to a wreck -- an old fishing trawler -- that the dive centre sank in 2002 at a depth of 26 metres.
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All the dive sites along Diani lie parallel to the coastline, between 500 and 700 metres from the shore, part of a 200-kilometre-long barrier reef.
Diving takes place beyond the reef, where the must-see creatures live. It is an ideal location for beginners, since dangerous sharks are rare here. But the site also appeals to experienced divers, especially those craving a glimpse of the whale shark. At up to 10 tonnes, they are the largest-known fish; they allow divers who encounter them to get very close before they swim away, and they have never been known to attack humans. Among scuba pros, seeing a whale shark is a prized goal.
While doing our buddy checks, I began to feel nauseous again. I sat quietly with my gear on, waiting for my group's turn. The ultimate cure for seasickness is jumping in; fortunately it was only a few moments before we hit the water.
Every diver has a favourite moment; mine is right after jumping in, when my head is completely underwater and I start breathing through my regulator. As I descended into the waters off Diani with my group, the water got murkier and chillier and the prow of the wreck came into view.
Schools of tropical fish surrounded us. Swimming around the wreck, we saw barnacles, trumpet fish, trigger fish, bat fish, guitar fish, soldier fish, bigeye fish, banner fish, angler fish, frog fish, rainbow runners, jack fish, snapper, sweetlips, grouper, barracuda, scorpion fish and a resident lion fish.
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Our time underwater flew by; after 40 minutes, we emerged for our surface interval -- the time required above water between dives to rid the body of excess nitrogen from breathing underwater.
The rainy weather had given way to bright sunshine. On the boat, the friendly dive guides and instructors offered us fresh fruit and coconut to re-energize. We relaxed and soaked up the sun for a little over an hour before gearing up for our second and last dive of the day.
We moved to a reef called Kisima Mungu. As we descended once more, we caught a glimpse of a three-legged green turtle as it swam away. We next encountered a friendly pilot fish, which looks a bit like a barracuda. It tried to bite our fins; for a moment, we worried that it was in fact a barracuda looking for prey. But after a few minutes it departed.
As we left, I kept thinking of the family of dolphins I'd gotten accustomed to seeing during the breaks on board, and I made plans to return. Although I didn't see any whale sharks on my first trip, I did see them on a second visit to Diani. I only hope more international travellers and divers consider Kenya as a vacation destination; Diani is one of the most beautiful and serene places I have ever been.
If You Go...
Flights: SN Brussels flies direct between Brussels and Mombasa. Otherwise, take East African Safari Airlines or Kenya Airways from Nairobi to Mombasa. Many major airlines fly to Nairobi from European cities, including KLM, Lufthansa and British Airways; East African also has flights to Nairobi from Paris, Rome and other cities. Charter flights are available from Germany, Britain and Italy (Condor, Air Europe, Volare, Monarch).
Local transportation: Mombasa Airport is on the mainland, but the town of Mombasa is on an island. Rent a car or take a taxi from the airport, and a ferry from Mombasa town to Diani, on the south coast. Matutus -- local buses -- are the cheapest way to get around, but you have to take one matutu to the ferry, then a second matutu to your final destination. Matutu prices from Mombasa to Ukunda/Diani are about 40 cents one-way.
Diving: Thirteen of 15 hotels along the coast offer beginner's certification plus advanced and speciality courses, along with excursions to the nearby islands of Chale and Wasini. At Diving The Crab, prices range from $90 US for two dives to $390 for a 10-dive package
Places of interest: Shimba Hills National Forest Reserve and Sheldrick Falls are an hour's drive inland; the Mwaluganje Elephant Sanctuary, home to African elephants and Sable antelopes; is linked to the reserve. Hotels and local tour operators offer day trips to the reserve and sanctuary.
When to go: December is the best time of year, because it's the dry season, with air and water temperature both around 28 C.
As published in www.canoe.ca, www.abcnew.go.com, www.msnbc.msn.com, www.indystar.com
For information on scuba-dive holidays in Kenya go to www.extreme-safari.com, email info@extreme-safari.com or call (+44) (0)207 652 7577 or (+44) (0)7818 007 613.
